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5 4 out of this world out of this world 3

Dialogues pills

BEST - "Until a generation ago, on the cliff houses were inhabited. Now we build the villages lower down, where he began the plain. "
-" Why did you move? "
- "Why are more of us, and on top there was enough room for everyone."
- "Why are so many?"
- 'Cause now you're better. "
around me I only see houses mud, sandy fields planted with millet and a well where women stand in line to collect water to drink. Who knows as it was when it was worse!

TIME
these parts is always best to book meals in advance. Coming out, 'this morning, we ordered a plate of white rice for my stomach and lamb kebabs and chips to the much more robust Joffrey.
We go back to one and we sit at a table shaded under un'incannucciata improvised. The wait.
After a while 'passing waiter.
- "Of how long do you think we eat?"
- (As if it were obvious, indeed it is, we respond without any polemical tone) "When he's ready."
- (The answer does not satisfy us, too vague) "It will be ready some time now?"
- "Well, about noon."
- "Look what is already one and a half!"
- 'Ah, ça va . "
After a quarter of 'Now comes the jelly.


WAR OF RELIGION - "Bouba, you're Muslim, Christian or animist?
- "All three, so I can celebrate the holidays of each religion,"


RECYCLING - "What use paint on the statues to make them so shiny and black?"
- "Used oil the machine."

FRIENDSHIP
Other travel by taxi-brousse. Start chatting to the guy sitting next to me: a great way to pass time more quickly and to alleviate the suffering caused by the fact of being in a sweat, rolled in a van iperaffollato and sitting on the spare wheel .
Ah, you're Italian-Juventus-Momo Sissoko!
even knew that the team of my city there is a player from Mali.
My partner is a Tuareg Timbuktu, sells jewelry and silver-stain persists in one place, of course. We always feel a bit 'uncomfortable in front of such insistence. I explain that they are very beautiful, that I thank him bid. You answered reducing the price by half. You tell him that it is not a question of value, but that just do not need it. Presses you with a "I will present" to make you feel even more guilty. But in the end I managed to hold on despite talk of the type "you are rich in Europe."
However, after the bargain we continue to talk a bit 'of this and that at one point when he says:
- "Now that we have become friends, give me your phone number so after you come home, we stay in touch, talk on the phone, give us news of each other and continue our friendship. And then I'll come find you and you will help me find a job in Italy. "
I am from Piedmontese and we do not we become friends, so, on two feet. But in Africa, hospitality is sacred ... My education subalpine intransigent forces me to give him the number. I know that on my return I receive a call from the Mali.

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The simple and complicated
Or the Other World High
Pays Dogon, Mali. A cliff about 200 km long and 150 meters high over the size sub-Saharan Sahel in the northwest-southeast direction. The sandstone rock is very sound of a live red, yellow and ocher. But the aspect that interests us most are the views and cultural rights. At the foot of the wall have alternated the two ethnic groups that have transformed the environment according to their lifestyle needs. Telem
I built houses of mud on the cracks in the top of the cliff. We climbed through the dense vegetation and thick vines at that time colonized the steep walls. They were "pygmies" or hunter-gatherers, living in symbiosis with the forest and it drew nourishment and protection from other peoples around them.
But around the thirteenth century a chain of migration from the west in the area brought a new population of farmers: the Dogon. They found a favorable environment in the region and settled there by building their mud-brick huts at the foot of the wall. They were not proficient enough to climb the rock as Telem, but they could take advantage of the position raised above the surrounding plain to dominate the area and spotting well in advance of any invasion by enemies. Their lifestyle obviously did not fit The dense vegetation so began a great work of obtaining clearing agricultural land and transforming the ecosystem in bush, as we still see today. Telem The poor were forced to migrate south along the forest in rapid retreat.

Dogon civilization could take root undisturbed along the entire cliff. Born real villages, literally leaning on the rock. Some are still inhabited, but most, in recent generations, have been moved into the flat where there is more space to accommodate rapid population growth in the population: the danger of war is now almost eliminated, even if poverty and hunger continue to devastate the existence of these (despite all) happy and carefree people. The abandoned houses, thanks to the protection from the elements offered by the cliffs, you can still visit and, indeed, are a popular tourist destination, especially after that UNESCO has made it a World Heritage Site. Higher, still emerge here and there the huts of Telem, now unattainable. The area, in addition to being a destination for migration of modern business and leisure travelers, anthropologists, geologists, volunteers and cooperating Western began to groove to a new breed: the 'homo rampicans .
At the end of the 80 strong French climber Catherine Destivelle went there to open new routes on the beautiful exotic rocks of Mali. Our guide Bouba Guindo was then a boy, tells us that he was hired to help the beautiful Catherine to carry the heavy equipment from the rock. While I say that I'm a climber (well most of my little cousin Alps), I notice that Bouba is more thoughtful. After a moment of silence, feel the urgent need to candidly express his doubts: "I was down there I looked at Catherine proceed with difficulty and effort over the wall. And I thought that if I were in his shoes I would pass a few meters to the right where it seemed much easier. "
am unarmed in front of his shiny reasoning. This is a real clash of cultures: the innocent naivete African vs. the artificial western sophistication. To explain the whole issue with completeness I should start with the ascent of Mont Ventoux, Petrarch, continue with the ascent of Mont Blanc De Saussure, then Whymper and Carrel, the last three issues of the Alps, the sixth grade, and overcoming it, the race eight thousand, Cerro Torre, Americans of Yosemite and our new morning. And still climbing, bouldering and indoor gyms. More simply explain that the purpose of Destivelle was precisely to identify and pursue the path more difficult to reach the top.
Pleased her.

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DIARIES DIARIES DIARIES

ride in motion
Ouagadougou is a city of two wheels. Here, back in '59 was organized the first edition of the Tour du Burkina Faso (then Upper Volta) in which he participated even Fausto Coppi who contracted malaria and then death a few weeks later. And after almost fifty years later, the paved roads (few) and red sand (most) are still crossed by thousands of bicycles without brakes though, since the Campionissimo appeared scooters and popping sfumacchianti.
I find myself riding the 80cc Yamaha. Joffrey, immersed in this busy river of debris along the narrow side lane reserved for bicycles of all kinds. It is an extreme experience for those who are here for just two days, but unfortunately I have no choice. Tomorrow we leave for Mali, I have not yet seen, and Jo is busy at work all day. On a piece of paper I scribbled the outline of a plan that would lead me to the embassy; pat on the shoulder, bonne chance! and I find myself alone in an unknown African capital, on board a motorbike with three-speed oval and twisted the front wheel and with minimal bass that makes me switch off, incidentally, always when the green traffic light is coming. Those behind start honking and dodging last time. Enveloped in a cloud of black smoke try the crowds, I kick the lever, the first and do riinfilo gas just before the yellow.
followed until I reach the embassy, \u200b\u200bfilling out forms and leave the passport.
- "You must go pick it up in the 14 and 15."
In the meantime I decided to go for a stroll downtown, now I got to know the roads. Place des Cinéastes here where I've been yesterday, but on foot. I have to turn right. Yellow light! Pass the same! Policeman! Stop me!! Shit !!!!!
- "Do you know who has passed a red light?"
- '(With humble expression and guilty) I'm mortified, I did not noticed, are not here and I was focused on the way to go ... and it was still yellow. "
- 'scooter parking here. Must present a fine and the documents of the middle of the police headquarters after 15. Pay a fine of 6000 francs CFA (about 9 Euro Ed) and will be returned. "
(to myself) And now as I do?! I have not the faintest idea where the headquarters of the police, I do not have the documents of the bike, maybe even Joffrey gave them to us and still comes back 'later tonight, tomorrow we leave and do not have time to collect my passport. A mixed feeling of despair and panic leads me to curse fate. But how the hell is this possible? On the streets Ouaga of moving scooters with four people on board, car held together by welds clear improvised offset vans loaded with people. And I seize the vehicle because I went with the yellow? In Africa?
- "Excuse me, but I could not pay the fine directly to you? You know, are Ouaga for two days, do not know where the headquarters of the police ... "
-" Ce n'est pas possible . "
I even found the incorruptible cop! In Africa!
- "Please, my friend's scooter is my host, he is at work and I can not contact, tomorrow we leave for a long trip, I gotta go pick up my passport to the embassy of Mali. If I pay the fine now, she lets me shoot and ends here! What do you say? "
-" If you pay the fine to me, I can not issue a receipt. "
What the fuck do I care of the receipt, I need the bike! (I think only)
- "Look for me a receipt is not a problem, you think that in Italy never ask your sales receipt."
- "Okay, give me money too, avec discrétion ."
turned the corner, so as not to attract attention and pull out your wallet. I only have one ticket from 10,000 francs, but fortunately there is a boy who sells cigarettes, buy the Excellence, the most expensive. Rightly has the rest, it's like if you enter a tobacconist with a 500 euro note. Parties to seek and disappeared with my money ... but soon returns with smaller bills and a handful of coins. It took a little exception to Murphy's Law. Pago
the cop and I'm shaky and it seems wrong with the wheel drunk and agitation that makes me tremble in his arms.
I bribed a cop honest?

Milena Velba Pfoto 2011

two other world out of this world one of the other world

The beginning ... the end
are closed at this torpedo of metal. We'll soon be fired at 10,000 meters, where there are at least 50 degrees below zero. The air we breath makes me uneasy: it Cold, dry, aseptic condition. I am troubled by the lack of smells and moods. Until a few hours ago, with every breath of his nostrils swelled flavors, tastes, dust and dirt. But now I was used, it does not bother me at all: it was the normal order of things.
He sat next to me a strange one. It is a white man, about forty, fat and ugly fluorescent yellow shirt. The beard, stinks to be sick, sour spices ... But what the hell has eaten? Until a few moments ago I thought about how I was now accustomed to the different scents perceived in Africa for three weeks and now I am deeply disgusted by my "brother" white perilous. In the last Instead of sventolona row sits a black, all dressed up, dressed in Western course. It arrived with him, will stay together. What courage! Will love or who knows what form of subjection? This particular type of encounter between cultures would have gladly done without. Last experience before returning to my world.

****

is a question of atmosphere. As soon as I look out the front door of the plane, although it is now night, the first feeling I is imprinted in the nervous system through the face and skin, nose into the lungs is warm and humid that I did not leave again until the return . Are in the cradle of humanity, and I soon realize why. It seems only now to be entered in the biosphere. The climate encourages life, everything from the most diverse and frenetic beats biological activities, the most fervent of natural enzymes. The puddles of water vibrates incessantly for the movement of insects, larvae and frogs. The walls are colonized by large lizards with yellow head chasing flies, gnats and mosquitoes.
mice in the nooks of cities collect the waste products from the largest concentration of humans. The land is covered by large ants that move in long neat rows, dragging giant cockroaches leaving a trail in the grains, termites build their high sand castles. In a few days between my toes will develop a friendly community who enjoy mushrooms in my macerated epithelial cells of sweat produced in plastic shoes. The flies will settle upon him incessantly especially while eating. We are in the rainy season, four months a year during which the nature has to recover the remaining eight of inactivity during which drought and blazing sun struck down every vital impulse.
There are 35 degrees and humidity is crazy. Life! Especially for all those beings who occupy positions in the evolutionary chain of being tucked: below humans, so to speak. The latter instead you just have to sweat, But without their viability are affected minimally. One vehicle in careless piles battered, crushed against each other and the amount of baggage and live animals, bags of rice and bicycles on the roof and under the seats. Through the fibers of the clothes, the humidity of the bodies is mixed: shoulder to shoulder, thigh to thigh. In truth this condition develops a strong sense of social malaise that makes one forget the physical and existential, chatting amiably and lively with its neighbors and is rarely crossed frowning eyes, overshadowed faces, angry expressions. Here we go! But just because everyone in the van (and more) posts (venti!) are employed, and if today had not filled, we would wait until tomorrow.